This is the second in a series of articles on dyeing wool using three main indicators, metric measurements, liquid dyes and percentage formulas. In the first issue, I described a review of the methods I use for dyeing wool, and the reasoning behind them. In this setup, I’ll tell you more about the hardware I prefer to use.
These methods can be adapted to dye any wool fiber, from fleece to roving to yarn, since they are based on weight of wool, not size. In fact, you can place the staining of other fibers and materials using similar equipment and methods that I describe. Indeed, it is possible to adapt all the information below and in future articles, with the most likely need for adjustment to accommodate the dye product you are using and the fiber you are dyeing. So even if you dye silk, cotton or other fibers, read on!
GENERAL EQUIPMENT
The following are ideas and suggestions for using consumables — at least the equipment that worked well for me. At the end of the article I will provide links and other information on where to find these materials.
WOOL
I always use white wool or the lightest natural wool. This allows you to minimize raw materials, and also standardizes an important variable when analyzing primary colors. For example, looking at two similar colors of wool with the idea of creating colors between them would be much more difficult if two different basic colors were used for two figures, so they are very different. But finding that "between them" color when looking at two colors of wool, created using the same three primaries on white or natural wool, is much easier. By standardizing the base color and using only primary dyes, both formulas are related. Thus, an intermediate color will be created using a mathematical formula somewhere between two other similar mathematical formulas. If I am mistaken when mixing a formula, I often catch it by comparing the resulting color with the colors on any mathematical side, if it does not match the logical progress of the color, what colors do. This systematic approach has created predictability of color, which is very satisfactory and convenient. If I need a special effect using a different base color, I can always dye the white wool on this base, and then finish the special effect. I find this occasional need for a two-step process, preferring to store many colors of wool.
DYES
I use ProChem Acid Purifying Acids to buy the three primary colors they offer. Thanks to these colors, you can produce a full range of colors in many ways: from almost white to dark black — almost any color I ever wanted. Although simple gray and black can be obtained using primaries, I found that these formulas do not work well for special effects, such as gradient dyes. The formula will seek to divide into its components as the color develops, giving an unpredictable result. Not that in certain circumstances it will not be useful or desirable, perhaps it is not the way I am. Thus, ProChem's preformed black color is more predictable and, therefore, preferable for the problematic and antiquarian, as well as for a highly variegated effect. Basic brown and brown shades are also more difficult to produce with consistency, so a random dye may want to store gray, black and / or brown along with primaries.
PREPARATION OF SHIPS
I do two types of dyeing, each with its own process and cooking vessels:
Test flowers on small pieces of wool, search for new flowers
Dyeing large pieces of wool for my own use or for sale.
I test colors on 4-gram pieces of wool (5% "X 5" in 13 ounces. Wool), one piece in each of six glasses, half filled with water, in a dry saucepan (just to keep them - any stable non-metallic vessel) cooked in the microwave. I use 300 ml scientific cups because they are designed for long-term reheating and cooling without destruction. They are thin, so I find it easier to process them, and I can fit more into a pot or casserole. (Mason jars will work great for a relaxed dye.) I experienced literally thousands of pieces of wool, and I found the microwave oven to be the most convenient and, by far, the most economical approach. I also tried to put glasses or jars in a water bath on the stove and in the oven, but I found the process more laborious and difficult to log in, so I was stuck with a microwave. You may find that you prefer a different method, so just use any method that suits you, if it gets the water boiling in each jar. If you use a microwave, be careful when heating water in pots. If he gets to a good boil, sometimes he will suddenly “explode” or “pop,” possibly burning you. Wear protective gloves on your hands and wrists when the water is near boiling. In all of my hundreds of games, this happened twice, and I got a nasty burn at one of those times.
For large pieces of wool, I use standard stainless steel pots that many dyers use. If you are using an electric stove, you may need to add something extra between the burner and wool if you are not using a good heavy pot. A thin metal pot, located directly on the burner, will cause the wool to fall to the bottom of the pot to capture color, causing dark spots. So you have two options. A gasket can be installed between the pot and the burner, or the vegetable steamer can be placed on the bottom of the pot to prevent this. I prefer the vegetable steamer myself, because then I can protect the wool, leaving the pot directly on the burner so that the water heats up faster. (I always hurry.)
MEASUREMENT IMPLEMENTATION
I use a digital scale of 3000 grams, which weighs up to the nearest gram, with a box for storing wool. It is compact, easy to use, not too expensive and does the job.
For small pieces, I use 1 ml, 3 ml, 5 ml and 10 ml syringes. For larger items, I switch to 20 ml syringes or 250 ml plastic cups. To measure even larger quantities, I use plastic jugs rated up to 1000 ml from ProChem, and I checked and found that the gradations on these large containers are accurately tracked using gradations of ml of smaller syringes and so on, so when measuring different amounts of dye, I I am sure that if I measure part of a formula in a jug, and some in a very small syringe, the ratio of the formulas will still be accurate. I tried other sizes in syringes and jugs, but found them less reliable in terms of the accuracy of their labeling, although this may be a problem only for specific products that I encountered. For a random dye, this may not be important, but if you are doing precision dyeing, it certainly matters, as my pile of discarded colors will be confirmed. Keep in mind that after repeated use on many syringes, these marks are really erased, so try to avoid touching the numbers and the ending lines when working.
AUXILIARY SUPPLIES
I use Synthrapol or Dawn's original fluid (very similar, chemically) to reduce surface tension when dyeing.
I use citric acid or vinegar to lower the pH of the dyebath, and if you have access to “sour salt” at reasonable prices (you can find it sometimes in canning shops), this also works because it is direct citric acid, like most dyers they will tell you, vinegar is much more expensive in the long term, so if you plan to dye in quantity, use citric acid, which is also more convenient and pleasant to use.
For mixing, I use stainless steel chopsticks - they work fine with trial colors in small pots, and also work great in large pots, too, for pieces up to a yard. I bought a few pairs and kept them in a glass filled with water, while the paint. This allows them to rinse when I mix several pots at a time with sharply different colors of dyes in them, especially if I mix black in one pot and pale yellow in the next. It's amazing how a tiny bit of black paint stuck to a stick can change the color of a pale yellow. (Don't ask me how I know.) I like them because they do not absorb dye and are compact and easy to store. Not very good for picking rice.
I use Glauber salt to keep the colors even on wool, since I sell it - just a little spotted. Salt molecules compete with dye molecules to bind with wool molecules, effectively slowing the binding of the dye to wool, and then preventing the dye from trapping. stained. For most colors, this is not a problem with regular mixing, and for most of the colors in my collection I do not use it. But for light brown, brown, gray and some very dull blues, greens and purpurs, this is necessary for a uniform color, especially in lighter values, up to average levels. I do not use it on darker levels, because I believe that it dramatically slows down the absorption of the yellow dye when there is a lot of dye in the pot, often doubling the processing time. If you prefer an irregular color and / or don't mind a little intuition in a dyepot sometimes, leave the salt. If you want to use it, I believe that regular table salt also works great.
Below are some sources for finding supplies. I distribute these articles to several article sites, some of which have strict limits on the number of URLs that can be used in the article, so I will give names and trust that you can easily find on the Internet.
Dorr mill - Wool (I also used other sources, such as Woolrich)
ProChemical & Dye - Dyes, plastic cups, jugs, citric acid, Glauber salt, Synthrapol
SKS science.com - Glass cups (also available at other research facilities or laboratories)
Old Will Knott Scales, online - Scale (Look for "My Weight 3001P")
cooking.com - Stainless steel chopsticks, vegetable steamer (can also be found at other retail stores)
Syringes Your local pharmacy will often give you several syringes with one syringe (without a needle) for free if you smile sweetly and don't ask too often. (They may also have 3-mL syringes available.) They provide them as a bunch to anyone. I ask 3-4 times at a time. You can also find 10-ml syringes in the pharmacy for a few dollars. These dimensions are the basis for color testing small pieces of wool, and I also often use them for larger parts — even when painting 1/2 inch, 5% (pale) value still requires only 10 ml of dye. eBay and eCrater are also good online sources for syringes of all sizes. Look for veterinary syringes for larger sizes (usually 60 ml is used), although I found 250-mm jugs from ProChem more accurate and equally easy to use. I was looking for online medical companies for syringes without much success, more expensive, but if you need to find a good source, please let me know!
If you want a short and comprehensive list of equipment, you need to try this method, here it is. You will have a lot of this at home or know where you can do without my help.
wool
Sun Yellow Dye 119
WF Magenta dye 338
Brilliant Blue Dye 490
Black dye 672
Brown dye (optional, also available in ProChem)
Citric acid or distilled vinegar
Glauber Salt or salt (optional)
Liquid for sintrapola or dawn
Plastic jugs - 5 - 6 in the amount of 250 ml, 2 - 3 in the amount of 1000 ml
(All of the above can be found in ProChem.)
1 ml, 3 ml, 10-ml syringes
Digital scale
Stirring
Useful spoon for digging up dyes when weighing (any old teaspoon or measuring spoon will do)
Screw the screw caps (or smaller jugs if you want) to store the dye.
In addition, if you test colors, you will need:
6 - 12 glasses or Mason's can
Pan or other flat vessel
Microwave (preferably intended for dyeing)
6-8 Extra small glasses or cups for mixing formulas will be convenient.
Or for dyeing large pieces:
3-4 large stainless steel or enamel pots, size about 20 square meters.
Vegetable steamers (optional)
Hope this information helps you get started. In the fourth part, I will tell you how I test colors. This is a fun project that I guarantee will keep you if you are not careful! To do this, you need to postpone a few days, depending on how much you want to be. I cannot be responsible if it turns into weeks. By that time, your family will expect to cook soup in pots, instead of wool - better stock up on frozen dinners!
