Fashion and colorful magazines are full of articles about cosmeceuticals, a new kind of skin care product that they say provide clinically proven improvements for a variety of skin conditions, from aging to prolonged exposure to the sun. But what is cosmeceuticals? Do they really work? And how do you know which kind of cosmeceuticals suits your skin care needs?
Cosmeceuticals First of all, it is a formula that combines the aesthetic benefits of cosmetics with the proven preventive effects of ingredients secreted by pharmaceutical scientists. And yes, they are really effective in improving skin condition, including those caused by exposure to the sun and aging. Cosmeceuticals combine five main categories: antioxidants, retinoids, clarifiers, hydroxy acids and botanists. Getting to know each one of them is the key to understanding what suits your individual skin care needs.
Antioxidants - Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Niacinamide
You know what happens when a metal is oxidized - it will rust. Something similar happens with the skin, because it increases - it is prone to oxidation from the effects of many dangerous environmental factors. Therefore, the use of cosmetic products with antioxidants, such as vitamin C, vitamin E and niacinamide, is so beneficial. Vitamin C is not only a powerful antioxidant, but also important in the synthesis of collagen and as a clarifier. Vitamin E, another powerful antioxidant, is also known for its photoprotective properties; its ability to protect against UV damage has been the subject of numerous studies. In combination with sunscreen, vitamin E reduces the signs of aging caused by exposure to the sun. Niacinamide, vitamin B, is used to treat rosacea, as well as yellowish, yellowed skin that is more common in the Asian population. It is very safe and demonstrates a good patient tolerance profile.
Retinoids - Reinaldehyde, esters, retinoic acid
Because of its strength and versatility, retinoic acid is the standard by which all other cosmeceuticals are measured. Retinoic acid is derived from vitamin A. In the market you can find many products based on retinol. As a group, they are called retinoids, and in addition to retinoic acid, they include reinaldehyde and esters. Most of them are topical preparations, although oral retinoic acid is used to treat severe acne. Retinoic acid also has anti-aging properties. It can reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as relieve hyperpigmentation associated with sunspots and age spots. The retinoid protector punctures the outermost layer and increases the regeneration of the epidermis. Side effects include skin irritation and redness. Other formulas, such as esters, do not have these side effects, but are not as effective. For daily use, retinaldehyde must be effective and portable. The use of retinoids should be discontinued up to a week before any cosmetic procedures, such as lasers, chemical peels or microdermabrasion. However, they can be used with these procedures to enhance and extend their benefits. In fact, retinoids can really speed up healing.
Lightening agents - hydroquinone, azelaic acid, koic acid, vitamin C
One of the most visible signs of skin damage associated with aging and exposure to the sun is localized hyperpigmentation, such as the sun and age spots. Various clarifiers can reduce hyperpigmentation. The gold standard was hydroquinone. Hydroquinone inhibits the formation of melanin, a pigment that gives color to the skin and causes the appearance of sun and age spots. Hydroquinone is available in several strengths, usually in concentrations of 4% in pharmaceutical products. However, due to its side effects, skin irritation and contact dermatitis, as well as potential mutagenic effects — the potential to cause genetic mutations — new products derived from natural substances have found their way into the spotlight. (Hydroquinone was banned in the fight against drugs in several European countries, as well as in Japan).
These new agents include Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid, Vitamin C and even botanicals such as licorice. Although these agents are not as strong as hydroquinone, these agents have no side effects and can be used every day. Vitamin C, popular as an antioxidant, and for its role in the production of collagen, also works as a clarifier. Vitamin C is not produced by the body, so it must be taken orally or applied topically. Often, these various lightening agents are combined with retinoids and glycolic acid because they work synergistically to reduce pigmentation.
Botanicals
The largest source of additives in cosmetic preparations today are botanists - extracts of plants, flowers, fruits, berries, twigs and bark. They can be divided into three main groups: anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants (see above), and skin soothing agents. Some botanicals also strengthen the immune system and facilitate repair. Some commonly used botanists include aloe, soy, green tea, gingko biloba and witch hazel.
Hydroxy acids - alpha, beta, poly
You have heard of the corrosive effects of acid. So why do athletes play such an important role in cosmeceutical products? Because it is a natural hydroxy acid. Some of them — such as glycolic acid, citric acid, and tartatic acid — are derived from fruits. Lactic acid is obtained from sour milk and was used by the ancient Egyptians for softer and smoother skin. Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid, which is fat soluble, and it is especially useful for people with oily skin, because the oil absorbs acid.
Hydroxy acids work by peeling off the skin - in this case, the outer layer is removed. Glycolic acid, in addition to exfoliation, is also known for its moisturizing ability. Glycolic acid also stimulates fibroblast cells in the skin to produce collagen, as well as hyaluronic acid. Both collagen and hyaluronic acid form the supporting structure of the skin, but the amount of these natural acids decreases in the skin as it ages. Botanists - cosmeceuticals, such as derivatives of natural substances, also work synergistically with other agents, such as retinoids, to ensure the rejuvenating effects of the skin.
Cosmeceuticals can improve a variety of skin conditions that only other cosmetics can cover. But it is important to consult with your doctor when considering cosmeceutical options. This is also a good idea, because many professional cosmetic products are available only to doctors and dermatologists.
